Marvelous Madrid

Majestic and humble, chic and shabby, frenetically busy with pockets of tranquillity, Madrid epitomizes the paradox of a modern city sprung from ancient roots. 

Though it is known for (among other things) bullfighting, tapas and Moorish architecture, the real heart of Madrid lies in its streets, peopled with Madrilenos and international tourists hungry for the food, arts, culture and energy of this vibrant metropolis.

Should your travels earn you a day, or even a weekend, in Madrid, you are in luck. This city of neighborhoods, each with its own distinct personality, is very walkable despite the ebb and flow of taxis, buses and throngs of people (police expertly direct wayward autos and pedestrians with shrill whistles). The Metro is reliable, clean and user-friendly. With that in mind, here are some experiences to savor.

Any excursion to Madrid must begin at its center, which can be found – coincidentally – at the geographic center of Spain. Thus, the plaza of Puerta del Sol is often know for being "kilometer zero" and the place from which all roads in Madrid begin. The place where Madrilenos ring in the New Year to the chimes of an historic clock also includes such iconic landmarks as the charming bronze sculpture of a bear and a strawberry tree (El Oso y El Madroño) and, in another illustration of the harmonious coexistence of old and new, the Tio Pepe sign advertising Spain's leading brand of fino, perched atop a graceful neo-classical building.

Follow your nose to the scent of sweet heaven just off the plaza. La Mallorquina is a venerable institution that features waiters in white jackets amiably serving pastries to locals and tourists. Established in 1894, this pastelería is very popular and often crowded, but you'll be rewarded for your efforts with silky hot chocolates, rich coffee, delicately layered napolitanas, decadent trufas and more. This is a good place to people-watch or get take-away and eat while you stroll.

Be sure to stop at the Plaza Mayor, a traditional formal urban open space that is actually a massive rectangular fortress-like structure with an arcade that opens into the interior of the plaza.  Construction began in the early 1600s and since then it has been the site of numerous festivities, bull fights, coronations, and executions and is still used for city-wide celebrations.

Further along the Calle Mayor and its eponymous grand plaza you'll find another, smaller yet no less picturesque town square in the Plaza de la Villa. Featuring a mix of architectural styles from the Mudejar of the 15th century to Renaissance and modern, it is as much fun to study the facades as it is the faces of passersby here.

A stone's throw from the city center you'll find El Museo Nacional del Prado, home to the Velazquez masterpiece Las Meninas, a gloriously dark and expressive portrait of a young princess. Even if you only have an hour, the Prado has routes of 15, 30 and 50 works which cover the most important artists represented in the galleries.

You can take in another master and masterpiece at Museo Nacional Centro de Arte Reina Sofia. Though originally constructed in the 18th century, the building has gone through numerous renovations and additions and became home to the collection in the 1990s. Some would argue that Picasso's Guernica, that massive canvas that depicts the horrors of the Nazi bombing during the Spanish Civil War, is not only modern art's most powerful anti-war statement, but also what put this museum on the map.

Rounding out the triumvirate of culture is El Museo Thyssen Bornemisza. Amassed by the Swiss elevator baron, this is probably the most expensive, eclectic and important private art collection in the world. It is equally extensive, so if you can't spare an entire day, be sure to visit the 20th-century galleries, chock-a-block with an amazing array of artists and works that define the modern period.

No trip to Madrid should exclude shopping, especially with such an amazing experience as El Rastro. Note we use the word "experience." Rather than dipping in and out of exclusive boutiques in Salamanca or delving into Spain's well-loved Zara, join the throng at this chaotic public market packed with stall after stall of vendors peddling everything from pottery and jewelry to dented cans. It's also known as the thieves' market, so hang on to your wallet as you make your way through the crowd and be prepared to drive hard bargains with the vendors.

Finally, a sampling of tapas, those small savory or sweet plates Spain has made famous, needs to be on your must-do list.  Though most tapas dishes are composed of traditional Spanish ingredients like sardines, olives and sausage, the very nature of the presentation lends itself to be displayed rather than explained. Therefore, don't worry about not being able to read the menu – you can simply sidle up to the bar and point to whatever tickles your fancy.

For an upscale tapas experience, try the well-loved Lhardy, originally established in 1839. Six ornately decorated, themed dining rooms offer elegant surroundings in which to sample signature dishes such as partridge stew, fallow deer, and tripe Madrid-style.

For a more casual and convivial atmosphere (and fewer, but no less delicious, choices) try Casa Mingo. There you can sit family-style at long tables and partake of the house specialty, roast chicken. Humble yet succulent and expertly seasoned, it is best washed down with their other special, an Austrian cider.