China Cooks

SANDY SPRINGS. Although the decor and location aren't as chi chi as you'll find at some restaurants, the food more than compensates. Cantonese cuisine is the specialty, and seafood is a particular strength. Along with shrimp and lobster, you'll find salt and pepper squid, Peking duck (without advance notice), soft-shell crabs, and whole grouper in an aromatic sauce. Spicing is judicious and doesn't obscure the flavor of the foods. Plus, vegetarian options are available, and even the soups are incredible, much more interesting than the usual concoctions you find at other Asian restaurants.