Brandt's Maisonette

BATON ROUGE. Set in a charming, early 20th-century cottage, this upscale restaurant boasts a definite Gallic feel, both in cuisine and decor. Guests in the small space delight in the traditional menu, a revelation of fresh, well-prepared ingredients and wonderful sauces. As a prelude to the main course, consider lobster bisque or chilled vicchyssoise. Then, move to roast quail with oyster dressing, Dover sole meuniere, veal chops with lump crabmeat, and, of course, such classics as duck breast, rack of lamb, and sweetbreads. An enviable wine list satisfies sophisticated palates, and a copper-topped bar offers cocktails. Great for a romantic dinner or special occasion.