Berlin: Around, Along and Unter den Linden

For several generations, it's been difficult to think of Berlin without remembering its troubled political past and its position at the epicenter of Nazi dreams and delusions. From a city once vibrant with culture and promise, it became a place devastated by ruin and lost populations. Even after the fall of the Third Reich, the city endured the humiliation of a concrete scar that separated its people, divided its history, and negated reconciliation.

In 1989, however, that scar was triumphantly pulled down by a nation intent on reunification. And when government and infrastructure merged, culture, identity, and hope followed. Now, as the city rebuilds itself physically – scaffolding and cranes are omnipresent – so do business, commerce, and even tourism. Making healing efforts, museums diligently chart the past, searching for answers in the act of cataloging and discovery, showcasing a hard-won experiential perspective that few cities outside of the country can share. Happily, nightlife, too, is reaching again for the vigor it knew in the '30s, and restaurants are plumbing the global depths for inspiration and innovation.

In the face of such energy and reinvention, and harboring a lightness brought on by the release of long-held tension, Berlin is a wonderful place to visit. It's a curious mix of what was and what is and what will be, and although a certain self-consciousness underlies the regaining and reclaiming, there's definitely room for spontaneity and travel-wrought delight.

Even with limited time, in fact, savvy travelers can get a feel for Berlin. Its attractions may be scattered – little surprise, given what it's endured – but its allure is similarly broad. With a little 10Best guidance, some comfortable shoes, and a good camera, you'll come away with terrific memories of a European capital that deserves admiration more than infamy.

Your best bet if you're a first-timer is to stick close to the center of Berlin, primarily in the Mitte district. After the world wars and during the days of Die Mauer (the Wall), the neighborhood was part of East Berlin. Redrawn with new territories in 2001, it still encompasses a good number of important historical sites and offers a pleasurable, picture-postcard glimpse of Germany's bustling capital.

To get started on a busy day, rise early and make a beeline to Restaurant Quarré, located on the ground floor of the Hotel Adlon Kempinski. It features gracious dining rooms, an outdoor terrace with wide-ranging views, and an able kitchen that serves food every day from 6:30am till 11pm. Opt for a hearty breakfast, and bask in the morning sun while you dine, fortifying yourself against a marathon session of sightseeing.

You'll have probably already spotted it, but a Berlin landmark sits not far from your table. The Brandenburger Tor, which backs up to Tiergarten – the one-time royal hunting grounds and current recreational oasis – rests at the western end of Unter den Linden (named for the trees that line the well-known boulevard). Built in the late 18th century, the gate is the only remaining one of a series that famously permitted entry into Berlin. Featuring Doric columns and crowned by a statue of Victory borne aloft by a four-horse chariot, the gate was originally constructed as a symbol of peace. Now restored and fronted by pedestrian-friendly Pariser Platz, it's a fascinating, impressive edifice that has been a political backdrop (some might say "tool") for Napoleon, Hitler, and US presidents Kennedy and Reagan.

A short distance from the gate is the Reichstag, the seat of German federal government. Built in the late 19th century, the beautifully detailed building burned in 1933, an occasion which was seized on by Nazi leaders to truncate personal freedoms and solidify their own power. It helped pave the way to Hitler's dictatorship. After much destruction during WWII, the Reichstag was rebuilt in the late '90s, and it is again a spectacular structure and a prominent tourist attraction. Especially notable is its glass dome, which allows visitors to ascend a spiral pathway in pursuit of dramatic views of the city and a bird's-eye view of the parliament floor below.