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Between Two Pieces of Bread

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by Joseph K. Hall Jr.

Philadelphia » Cheese Steak

More Philly than the Liberty Bell, the Phillies or even Rocky Balboa, this sandwich was invented by Pat Olivieri in 1930. The core recipe calls for thin-sliced top round, fried onions and hoagie rolls. The cheese depends on your taste: American, provolone or Cheese Whiz. As for where to get one, that's easy: Delessandro's Steaks in Roxborough. Wait. I meant Geno's on South 9th. Sigh. Actually, try both. Then head to Pat's in South Philly, the self-proclaimed "King of Steaks." Who gets your vote?

Insider tip At Geno's, things move fast and counter intelligence is a must. At the first window, place your order, including cheese preference and whether or not you want onions. Pay, get your sandwich and move to the next window for fries and drink.

Louisiana » Muffuletta

For starters, this is a big one. Homemade Sicilian "cleft in twain," layered with finely cut slices of Italian ham, salami and cheeses, and topped off with chopped olive salad. Most associate the muffuletta with the French Quarter's Central Grocery. In other news, folks in nearby Shreveport are sure proud of their "muffy," which uses the same type of bread but mustard instead of olive oil, American cold cuts en lieu of Italian deli meats, and a "special" olive salad recipe. Find them at historic Fertitta's Delicatessen.

Insider tip Folks down in Louisiana know what they're doing when they make the olive salad. Everybody else is a rookie. Seriously.

Chicago » Italian Beef

Like the others, delish but not very salubrious. Chicago-style "Italian bread" is a chewy white loaf sliced lengthwise and filled with sirloin that's been roasted, sliced and seasoned with spices like garlic and oregano. Toppers include sautéed onions and bell peppers or a spicy pepper mix called giardineira. The sandwich was born as curbside fare in the Windy City's Little Italy neighborhood, and that's where the best ones can be found to this day. Just follow your nose to Al's #1 on West Taylor.

Insider tip This can be a sloppy one. The sandwiches are served dripping wet, and you'll quickly appreciate the chewy bread and the paper they're wrapped in. And napkins. Get plenty of napkins.

Pittsburgh » Primanti's Sandwich

The Steel City's one, true home-grown celeb, the Almost Famous Sandwich was born in the 30s when Lou, Dick and Stanley Primanti decided the Strip District's nightshifters needed hearty eats just like their daytime counterparts. To make things easier for their customers (or because they forgot to buy utensils) they just piled everything in the bread – the meat, the cheese, the onions, the coleslaw, the tomatoes and even the fries. The result, of course, was a heaping mess that could be eaten with one hand.

Insider tip Primanti Bros has a lot of interesting "meat" choices, from double egg to pastrami to knockwurst, but go for the Pittsburgher Cheese Steak. After all, it's the #2 best seller, topped only by the Iron City Beer you'll need to wash it down.

Tampa » Cubano

One story claims Cubanos were born in early 20th century Ybor City to feed hungry migrant workers. Folks there've certainly gotten it down pat: sliced dill pickles, Genoa salami, roast pork, ham and Swiss cheese wedged between two pieces of buttered Cuban bread. The sandwich is then pressed until the bread's flat and crispy. In Tampa, Alessi Bakery & Deli is hands-down the place to go. Not to be outdone, Miami comes through with Puerto Sagua, a Collins Avenue diner that's open late.

Insider tip Mojo. Remember that. A Cubano made without pork marinated in this hot, garlicy sauce is, in fact, no Cubano at all ... Just a flat, toasted sandwich!


Buffalo » Beef on Weck

We have German immigrants to thank for this lovely roast beef ditty, served in just about every bar, tavern and pub from Buffalo to Rochester. The secret here is in the roll. Made only in Western New York, kümmelwecks are basically thick Kaisers flavored with loads of caraway seeds and pretzel salt. That said, a good beef on weck is, at the very least, a two-beer sandwich. In Downtown Buffalo, Laughlin's is a great place to try one, even though it's a tad dressy.

Insider tip Buffalonians love this sandwich almost as much as they love wings and the Bills, and they don't mind heavy-handed horseradishing. If your sinuses are sensitive, speak up or sniff later.


Massachusetts » Fluffernutter

The preferred snack of kids all over New England for the last 80 years or so, the Fluffernutter is made by spreading peanut butter and Marshmallow Fluff (made by Durkee-Mower Inc. in Lynn, MA) between two pieces of white bread. It's sticky and high in calories, but it's sure tasty! There's no doubt that New England moms make the best ones. However, if you're on the road, the Mom option is gone. As a consolation prize try hitting Brighams High Street in Boston, where you can enjoy a scoop or two of Fluffernutter ice cream.

Insider tip Last summer, Massachusetts Senator Jarrett Barrios drew gasps with a proposal to all but ban the Fluffernutter from public school cafeterias. Not surprisingly, this was followed by a grassroots campaign to have the Fluffernutter adopted as the State Sandwich!

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