La Cagouille

14ème ARRONDISSEMENT. Much to the delight of patrons, chef Gérard Allamandou doesn't feel compelled to mask fresh seafood in elaborate sauces or so much fussy preparation. Instead, he lets the Montparnasse restaurant's just-caught bounty speak for itself. A hint of bacon, a touch of oil, and everything's just as it should be. A great wine list also helps coax out the flavors of fish and shellfish. METRO: Gaîté (line 13)