Striped Bass

CENTER CITY. Restaurateur Stephen Starr certainly hit the mark with this spectacular seafood number, and it's easy to be awed by its sheer beauty. In fact, those who visited Striped Bass during its pre-Starr heyday will find much of what made the original space so glamorous has been left intact – still here are 28-foot ceilings, the marble columns and Bob Philips' large metal fish sculpture. As to cuisine, dishes like wild bass wrapped in cabbage, miso-marinated black cod, with Chinese mustard greens, and parmesan-crusted Nova Scotia halibut with tomato chutney ensure that the current incarnation will be as prestigious as its precursor ever was. Chef's seasonal five-course tasting menu: $85; five-course wine pairing: $45.