La Dolce Vita

Just as Rome has something to suit every taste, so traditional Italian desserts range in flavor from tart to sweet, some best accompanied by a strong espresso, others to be savored with a sweet moscato d'asti. 

So if you find yourself in Rome, indulge your cultural palate and sightsee to your heart's content; just be sure to save room for dessert.

What better place to begin your exploration of the culinary landscape than the Via Veneto. Though the decadent cafe culture was immortalized in Fellini's film La Dolce Vita in the 1960s, this wide, elegant boulevard, lined with gracious edifices was infused with high style and haute living as early as the late 1800s. Today you can find numerous cafes serving coffee and sweets alongside swanky hotels, the American Embassy and the Capuchin Church of the Immaculate Conception.

Speaking of grandeur, if you'd like to tuck into a full meal before you hit the sugar rush, a nearby option is Il Quadrifoglio on Via del Boschetto. Within the imposing former palace, a cozy dining room sets the stage for the Neapolitan flavors that rule the menu. Fresh-made pastas and a unique entree made with black rice are standards. The restaurant is best known for its torta caprese dessert, made with that unforgettable blend of chocolate and hazelnut. 

Should you find yourself strolling that other venerable street, Via del Corso, you'll find a mile-long stretch of 19th-century splendor in the heart of the city that was also a haven for intellectuals tossing ideas to and fro with the same vigor they tossed back a shot of espresso. The Art Nouveau masterpiece Galleria Alberto Sordi sits on the Corso, and is home to a number of shops and cafes.

For those who prefer shopping as their decadent indulgence (and those who are searching for the perfect dish or cup with which to serve their own Italian dessert drinks and pastries at home), a stop into Artimport is a must. Just off the Corso on Via del Babuino, the shop is replete with antiques, fine locally-made porcelain, as well as china and silver serving pieces.

While you amble through this neighborhood, be sure to sample some of the fine fare at Ciampini. The location in the Piazza San Lorenzo is picture-postcard perfect with outdoor tables shaded by broad market umbrellas, but their other location, set high above the city between the top of the Spanish Steps and the entrance to the Villa Borghese, boasts some of the best views over the Roman rooftops and is as romantic a setting as any could want. Open only from mid-March through mid-November, but the warm weather months beg for a dip into gelato made with fresh fruit and rich cream.

The Cremeria Monteforte across the street from the Pantheon is another gelateria in the vicinity that serves a variety of flavors, these to-go. Try the pistachio for an extraordinary burst of full-bodied intensity; as you dip your spoon, you might keep in mind that your frozen delight made its first appearance on the tables of the Medici in the 16th century, but the architectural wonder before you preceded gelato by over 1300 years!

As the Pantheon is a temple to the gods, so can Ciuri Ciuri be a temple to the sweet tooth. Thoroughly Sicilian fare takes center stage at this gelateria-rosticceria-pasticceria. You would do well to stop in at lunch and nibble on the crunchy-on-the-outside, moist-on-the-inside fried rice balls known as arancini. Usually stuffed with a combination of rice, meat and peas, this quintessential Sicilian meal in one compact, savory round can (and should) be followed up with a miniature cannoli charmingly decorated with a sugar flower, which signifies the name of the shop.

Another spot to soak up history and pastry close to the Pantheon is a Neopolitan bar/restaurant La Caffeteria. Traditional favorites abound. One to try is sfogliatelle, shaped like a fat seashell whose ridges are made of layer upon layer of the thinnest, crispiest flaky crust that surrounds a sweet cream center. Or when in this Roman enclave, do as the dashing politicos that populate the nearby government buildings of Palazzo Montecitorio and Palazzo Chigi do: stand at the counter and drink a quick shot of espresso or amaro before heading out to explore more.

When evening comes, take the opportunity to work off all your indulgence by climbing the Spanish Steps. Not unlike a stairway to heaven, the 138-step ascent leads to the Piazza Trinità dei Monti and its eponymous church. At twilight, the steps are bathed in a caramel glow from the streetlamps, and the views of the city and its denizens and visitors are inspiring and unforgettable. A true glimpse of la dolce vita indeed.