Dining Room at the Ritz-Carlton

NOB HILL. Roundly praised by critics, the Dining Room at the Ritz-Carlton manages to do everything right: magnificent decor, an excellent wine list, professional service and, oh, the food. The contemporary French menu bears an Asian touch, and its execution is without reproof. Representative of the fare are chilled Dungeness crab with mango and red onion compote, slow-roasted Japanese sole with lobster tortellini, and sancho peppercorn-crusted duck breast with kumquat glaze. Excellent wines and champagnes bring out the cuisine's welcome complexity, and artisanal cheeses and hand-made desserts allow guests to cap a meal as their tastes desire.