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The El Rey Inn features mom-and-pop comfort and individuality that's hard to find these days.

The El Rey Inn features mom-and-pop comfort and individuality that's hard to find these days.

Photo by Art Meripol. © 2009 Southern Living


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© 2009 Southern Living

by Tanner C. Latham

This is a city full of scenes – vignettes framed by ancient doorways and alleys. With all of these, Santa Fe commands its own dreamy identity. And, believe it or not, July is a perfect month to visit. While the rest of the Southwest swelters, the city stays literally above it all. After an easy flight into Albuquerque, you're an hour from higher elevations and lower temperatures. Enough said.

Staying Over

Yes, it's 2 miles from the Plaza (the thriving cog of downtown's wheel), so you have to drive in, but the El Rey Inn is the best money you'll spend for a night's stay. If the rooms feel a bit cramped, spread out in the courtyards and by the pool.

The Santa Fe Motel & Inn's modest, comfortable rooms live a little larger, and you're an easy walk downtown from here.

For a room in the heart of it all, stay at the Hotel Plaza Real just off the Plaza. You can't beat the location, and the peaceful courtyard is a bonus.

For a Bite

Coyote Cafe is a Santa Fe culinary staple, but head upstairs another level to La Cantina. The rooftop bar and light dining menu – killer margaritas and Tacos al Pastor, spit-roasted pork with pineapple – make this a perfect late-afternoon destination.

Find some of the best tapas at El Farol up on Canyon Road. You'll probably be walking from gallery to gallery there, so stay light with the Setas, sautéed cremini mushrooms with serrano ham and sherry.

For authentic northern New Mexican cuisine, find La Choza, which sits hidden off Cerrillos Road just south of town. Try the basic entrées such as enchiladas or tamales, and when you request Christmas, you'll be served with both red and green chile sauces.

Cafe Pasqual's sits just south of the Plaza, so it's no secret, but they've kept fresh with organic ingredients and inventive cuisine. Go for breakfast, and enjoy the Tamal Dulce, a sweet corn-and-raisin tamale wrapped in banana leaves, served with black beans and Mexican hot chocolate.

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