Set Your Sights on Savannah

Savannah is one of those curious cities that doesn't easily hew to a single descriptive phrase. Its character shifts dramatically depending on who is discussing it and what they bring to the table. Certain folks remember it as an easygoing, humid port city, steeped in history and charm. Others know it as a prominent film locale and as the home of Savannah College of Art and Design (SCAD). Others have their perspective colored by hedonistic vacations and time spent along River Street. Happily enough, all are true, and all of them impart to Savannah a laid-back, slightly alternative feel that's often a trademark of waterside cities, especially those with a definite sense of their pasts. That familiarity gives them license to break the rules just a bit, to promote eccentricities, and to draw crowds looking for something beyond their own status quo.

Luckily for visitors, the most long-lived, picturesque portion of Savannah is its Historic District, which measures in at roughly 2½ square miles. This compact footprint provides excellent proximity to most of the city's best attractions, restaurants, clubs, and shops. A great many places are also easily accessible from local hotels and B&Bs – a real perk when you're trying to hold down rental car costs or know that you'll be imbibing during your visit. Within a short distance from the river is most anything you'll need or desire.

If you're inclined to explore on your own, there's plenty of literature available to help you forge your own way. On the other hand, a lot of Savannah business is predicated on letting others do the talking. The city's popular tours point out history and architecture, share thoughts on restaurants, compare notes on ghosts and local hauntings, and spill the civic beans like only natives can manage to do. To get in on the action, book your favorite guided outing before you arrive, and then prepare for an adventure into the past – with considerations made for the present, of course.

To maximize your day's adventure, get an early start at 700 Drayton Restaurant. You'll dine in style at this highly regarded restaurant, which is affiliated with the Mansion on Forsyth Park, one of the city's best properties. The elegant, historic place boasts modern touches in both decor and cuisine, especially as seen in the latter's cinnamon pecan French toast, shrimp and Swiss omelet, and crab-and-cheddar biscuit Benedict, accompanied by breakfast potatoes and a rich béarnaise sauce.

After you've eaten, take in the spectacle of the 19th-century mansion, and then stroll over to famed Forsyth Park, easily recognized by its impressive, cast-iron fountain. Mimicking French city parks, Forsyth provides evidence of Savannah's quick-built prosperity and worldliness. It's just as lovely these days and invites sun-drenched relaxation for adults and playgrounds for kids. Let it lull you with its calm beauty before you set off towards the river.

As you leave Forsyth, head north a short distance until you reach the Mercer Williams House Museum. Open to the public after many years as a private residence (it belonged to Jim Williams, the famed antiques dealer who was a prominent figure in Midnight in the Garden of Good and Evil), the 1868-era house is a showplace of art, antiques, and architecture. Exquisitely carved and composed elements and furnishings indicate the wealth Savannah enjoyed during its heyday, and visitors are thrilled to be given a glimpse of a home known for both its privilege and its scandal.