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Take Out: No matter who your mama is, you'll find the ultimate in comfort food here: liver and onions, fried chicken (or livers or gizzards), braised oxtails, and so on. Moreover, you could make a meal on sides alone – collard greens, cheesy grits, and fried green tomatoes indicate what the goodness is all about. The modest decor is passable but feels slightly modern for homestyle cooking. But then again, true soul food needs no trappings.

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