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Take Out: It's not that the Barbecue Kitchen is hard to get to (it's located just off I-85), but the ill-informed may consider its airport area setting a bit "out there." In point of fact, this A-frame smokehouse is a reward worth traveling for, and the heavy traffic is proof positive that if you serve up good food and neighborly service, people will go out of the way to give you their business. The finger-licking house specialty is hickory-smoked pulled pork, and when a heaping portion arrives flanked by made-from-scratch biscuits (or corn muffins), collard greens, fresh rutabagas and candied yams ... Well, let's just say that nature'll kick in, and you'll know exactly what to do! MARTA: College Park

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