Best Restaurants: The alinea, or paragraph mark, signals the start of a new idea. The restaurant Alinea aims at nothing short of revolutionizing dinner. Chef Grant Achatz, who trained with the likes of Thomas Keller at The French Laundry, merges art and science, drawing foodies worldwide. He often gets lumped in with molecular gastronomists, but he's after something deeper with his wow-producing plates (they change constantly on the 20-course menu), but imagine the kind of madness it takes to devise a peeled grape, coated in some sort of peanut casing and served on the stem as an homage to PB & J. The all-small courses may arrive on pillows inflated with lavender air, mini pedestals or wire hangers; each piece of service wear is custom-designed by Martin Kastner of the local firm Crucial Detail. It's dinner as theater, best appreciated by open minds and deep pockets.