For anyone new to Cantonese cuisine, dim sum (literally: "little heart") is the place to start. Normally served from early morning up to and including lunch, dim sum embraces a selection of small dishes such as dumplings and spring rolls. In the more traditional restaurants, the staff push trolleys loaded with dim sum between the tables, calling out the dishes they have on board. Dim sum is essentially a meal taken by a large group, washed down with tea, and as much a social occasion as a time for eating. For overseas visitors, just watching the dim sum "circus" is part of the experience. There are hundreds of Cantonese restaurants in Hong Kong, from relative newcomers like Zen, to old stalwarts like Yung Kee. It's said that if it flies and isn't an airplane, or if it's got four legs and isn't a table, Cantonese will eat it! Joking aside, Cantonese is one of the world's great food cultures, and Chinese aver that the best Cantonese is served in Hong Kong. It's as much about the atmosphere as the food, with big noisy restaurants filled with large groups yacking and clattering their chopsticks and enjoying every minute of it. Any Cantonese meal is a great insight into local culture.