Canlis restaurant at dusk, the perfect time for dessert. — Photo courtesy of Canlis
Okay, so he didn’t win the award, but just being nominated in March meant that Baruch Ellsworth of Canlis has earned his place among the best up-and-coming dessert makers in the country. As in the magazine’s original Best New Chef’s program, pastry chefs were judged by a panel of editors for the main award, and another winner was chosen by readers. Ellsworth was the only Seattle dessert guru to make the initial cut, and it’s a good thing he got here in time to represent the city.
Recently installed in the Canlis kitchen, Ellsworth came to the Seattle institution from benu, a trendy San Francisco restaurant. In a roundabout way, he has come full circle. His previous experience features stints at famed San Francisco restaurants, including at the Ritz-Carlton and Campton Place, where he worked with now Canlis chef Jason Franey.
Canlis has been a Seattle fine-dining institution since it opened in 1950, and chefs there key in on the freshest local ingredients in season. For Ellsworth, that means his pick of bountiful berries and other items from local farms. For example, Pistachio Génoise, with yogurt, cherries, and dark chocolate ($14) or classic crème bruleee, here served with market fruit and sorbet ($12).