Okay, so maybe you like to smoke the hookah and maybe you don't. But in the ample, open-air (but covered; take that, Florida rain!) space at Cafe 34 Istanbul, the smoke may not bother you at all, especially early on. This I-Drive enclave is open 24 hours (yes, really) and the most active shisha enthusiasts come late. Or early. Depending on your perspective. The rest, and there are a lot of them, come for food so tasty and authentic that you may not get past the appetizer menu. Creamy, garlicky haydari and spicy, peppery ezme ... along with names you may recognize (hummus, tabouli, babaganoush and more) are served alongside soft pita. Come the entree round, beef and lamb doner (it's basically a Turkish gyro) compete with kebabs and juicy, well-seasoned kofte.