L'innocence

This is the kind of tucked away little bistro on a Parisian sidestreet in a chic quartier that inspire novels and pivotal scenes in French films. The young team of Jonathan Caron and Anne Legrand met only in 2015 and had little more than the mentorship of Christophe Pelé (2 stars, Le Clarence) in common, save for a passion pure of serving up excellence on a plate. Here at L'Innocence, with its tightly fitted dozen tables, the food becomes the sole focus. Chef Legrand works in the open kitchen to craft her fixed menu dishes while Caron interacts with guests and selects wine pairings (optional). Each evening differs but you can expect delicacies along the lines of grilled cauliflower with minted fromage blanc and citrus condiments; toasted foccaccia with basil olive oil; white asparagus with smoked poutargue (a native southern French fish paste caviar) with a white butter sauce; lamb shank served with carrots from Annie Bertin's gardens, and for the pre-dessert, tempura fried acacia blossoms served with Bruyère honey for dipping. Perhaps it is the pedigree of chefs past such as Chef Rose who have left a bit of fairy dust inside these walls? Or, more likely, it is simply the absolute purity of passion and dedication to excellence in French cuisine that sets this young duo's restaurant apart. It is one not to be missed and offers promises of a meal breathtaking in its delicacy, imaginative creativity, execution, presentation and service.