L'innocence

This is the kind of tucked away little bistro on a Parisian sidestreet in a chic quartier that inspires novels and pivotal scenes in French films. The young team of Jonathan Caron and Anne Legrand have the mentorship of Christophe Pele (2 stars, Le Clarence) in common, save for a passion pure of serving up excellence on a plate. Here at L'innocence, with its tightly fitted dozen tables, the food becomes the sole focus. Chef Legrand works in the open kitchen to craft her fixed menu dishes while Caron interacts with guests and selects wine pairings. Each evening differs, but you can expect delicacies of grilled cauliflower with minted fromage blanc and citrus condiments; toasted foccaccia with basil olive oil; white asparagus with smoked poutargue in a white butter sauce; lamb shank served with carrots from Annie Bertin's gardens, and for the pre-dessert, tempura-fried acacia blossoms with Bruyere dipping honey.