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Deep Dish: Where Chicago Chefs Like to Eat

When these pros get a craving for Italian fare, this is where they go
Dawn Reiss

February 5, 2016 // By Dawn Reiss

By Dawn Reiss
February 5, 2016

 
  • slide 1

    Where Chicago Chefs Get Their Italian Fix

    When it comes to Italian food, there's no shortage of choices in Chicago and trying to narrow the scope is always difficult.
     
    We polled some of Chicago's most famous chefs and a variety of foodies to find out where they like to go for their Italian favorites. From high-end Italian restaurants to "old-school red sauce joints," this selection runs the gamut and there's something for everyone.

    Photo courtesy of Spiaggia

  • slide 2

    Osteria Langhe

    This Logan Square spot is a favorite thanks to its focus on Piedmontese-style of food. Try the hand-pinched ravioli, which chef/co-owner Cameron Grant calls "pockets of love that make you happy."  A native of Scotland, Grant ran a restaurant in Treiso, Italy before coming to Chicago.
     
    James Beard award-winning chef Tony Mantuano says he can tell. “The pastas are just like what you’d taste in Italy," he says.

    Photo courtesy of Dawn Reiss

  • slide 3

    Piccolo Sogno

    In Italian, piccolo sogno means "little dream." If you dream of delicious Italian fare, Piccolo Sogno is one of the best spots for service and food. There's an extensive wine list with more than 400 choices and a variety of seasonal dishes. Try the prosciutto (either with fresh melon or on a pizza) or gnocchi (picture rosemary-and-potato dumplings, oven-dried tomatoes, braised chicken, leeks and parmesan).

    Photo courtesy of Dawn Reiss

  • slide 4

    Balena

    Balena executive chef/partner Chris Pandel says his Lincoln Park restaurant is "the closest thing to true Italian that is seasonal, because it's simple and off-the-cuff." One of his specialties is Tagliolini Nero, where the pasta is blackened with squid ink, and coupled with sea urchin, crab, mint and uni butter.
     
    Osteria La Madia's chef Jonathan Fox says, "They are over-the-top creative with their food," while Osteria Langhe's chef Cameron Grant says Balena has "amazing pastas – original and unique."

    Photo courtesy of Eric Kleinberg Photography

  • slide 5

    Nico Osteria

    The brainchild of James Beard award-winning chef Paul Kahan, this Gold Coast hot spot is all about Italian seafood. Nico Osteria's crudo raw bar offers everything from Madai snapper to scallops, oysters and veal tartare. Or try the mussels and stuffed pappardelle.
     
    "You can’t go wrong here," says Piccolo Sogno's Tony Priolo. "The crudo is incredible," says Osteria Langhe's Cameron Grant about the raw selection, who recommends the bigeye tuna crudo with foie gras pastrami.

    Photo courtesy of Derek Richmond

  • slide 6

    Quartino Ristorante & Wine Bar

    This tapas-style River North restaurant offers everything from veal meatballs and risotto to roasted octopus. Try something off the salumi section, recommends Tesori chef Danny Sweis, "because they make it all in-house." Highlights include the spianata, a paper-thinly sliced porkbelly and shoulder.
     
    "Quartino is the way you would eat at home in Italy," says chef John Coletta who goes to Italy 4-5 times a year. "We don’t take ourselves seriously, we take the food seriously."

    Photo courtesy of Dawn Reiss

  • slide 7

    Forno Rosso

    Forno Rosso has a cult-like following on the northwest side of Chicago for a reason. This is one of only two Neapolitan-certified restaurants in Chicago. The pizzas cook quickly in the 900-degree oven, creating a chewy inside that is perfectly crisp on the outside. Plus, ingredients are shipped in from Italy three times a week. Try the bianca (white) pizzas which allow the true flavors of the fresh ingredients and housemade sausages to carry through. 

    Photo courtesy of Dawn Reiss

  • slide 8

    Formento's

    For upscale classic Italian cuisine, head to Formento's. As chef Chris Pandel likes to say, "There’s two schools of Italian in Chicago. Old school red sauce joints, and folks trying to do authentic Italian food from the peninsula. Formento's is the old school red sauce joint,  so you get the Americana version here."
     
    If Pandel had his last meal at Formento's, it would consist of "meatballs, more meatballs, then giardiniera, the chicken parm and a whole chocolate cake, all to myself."

    Photo courtesy of Formento's

  • slide 9

    Coco Pazzo

    Coco Pazzo offers Tuscan-inspired, seasonal food in a business-casual environment that skews on the pricier side of Italian. Located in River North, this institution has been around for more than 20 years.
     
    Get housemade pastas such as the fettuccine castagne, a housemade chestnut pasta with wild boar ragu or rigatoni alla buttera with housemade fennel sausage, peas, tomatoes, parmesan and cream. Try the antipasti including the misti, which includes a selection of cured meats, grilled vegetables and parm.

    Photo courtesy of Matt Savage, Averyhouse

  • slide 10

    Eataly

    Part grocery store, part restaurant, this is the mecca of all Italian food. At 63,000 square feet, it's the fourth largest Eataly in the world and includes 16 restaurants, 10 fresh departments, two coffee bars, five private event spaces and one cooking school. Order a la carte at the La Piazza area, with its burrata, prosciutto di Parma and marinated olives, freshly baked bread, richly peppery olive oil and wine by the glass.

    Photo courtesy of Eataly

  • slide 11

    Spiaggia

    James Beard award-winning chef Tony Mantuano likes to say, “the most important ingredient is the one you leave out.” At Spiaggia, every ingredient is thoughtfully used. This is Chicago's only four-star Italian restaurant.
     
    "There are a lot of successful chefs in this industry, but there aren’t as many that work as hard or are as good of a guy as Tony,"  says Adam Rapoport, editor in chief of Bon Appétit magazine. "I just think he’s a real mensch."

    Photo courtesy of Spiaggia

  • slide 12

    Ugo's Kitchen & Bar

    Located in Logan Square, chef/owner Stephen Hasson bills this restaurant as a "modern Italian diner" that focuses on housemade meats and cheeses, pizzas, pastas and seasonal small plates. It stays open until 2 a.m., making it a favorite among industry types, says Cynthia Hunter, the pastry prep cook at Sable Kitchen & Bar. She recommends the savory agnolotti stuffed with ricotta and taleggio, topped with slices of parmesan and maitake mushrooms, served in a mushroom brodo and garnished with nasturtiums. 

    Photo courtesy of Ugo's Kitchen & Bar

  • slide 13

    Tuscany on Taylor

    Gluten-free diners can get their pasta fix at this Little Italy institution on Taylor Street. Yes, technically there are five Tuscany locations, including O'Hare and Midway airports, but the original is located on the city's west side also known as University Village. Think big portions and not too expensive. It's a good place to get eggplant parmigiana, gnocchi and other classics. You'll also get tableside roasted garlic and pastas can be served with tomato sauce or bolognese sauce. 

    Photo courtesy of Dawn Reiss

  • slide 14

    Gene & Georgetti

    There are ton of Italian steakhouses in Chicago, but Gene & Georgetti is a favorite of Adam Rapoport, editor in chief of Bon Appétit magazine. "I really appreciate an old school restaurant," says Rapoport.  "And I like a real encrusted steak. So I get a ribeye, nice and charred on the outside with a lot of salt and pepper and a lot of vegetable sides, like broccoli."

    Photo courtesy of Marcin Cymmer

  • slide 15

    Sabatino's

    This piano-bar joint in Old Irving is as old school Italian as they come. "The older I get the more I like the old school red sauce kind of places," says Andrew Knowlton, deputy editor for Bon Appétit magazine. "I love those throwback places that are from a different time. So that’s why I like Sabatino’s." The menu offers classics such as veal parmigiana and an extensive diverse selection that ranges from tortellini and gnocchi to chicken, fish and sirloins.

    Photo courtesy of Dawn Reiss

  • slide 16

    Spacca Napoli

    Chef and owner Jonathan Goldsmith's journey from clinical social worker to "a guy who is obsessed with making great dough" included a stop in Italy, learning from master pizzaiolo Enzo Coccia. The result is an Italian restaurant known for its Neapolitan-certified pizzas. 
     
    Osteria La Madia chef Jonathan Fox says Spacca Napoli is one of his go-tos for Italian because it's "simple, yet delicious." Fox's recommendation: the margherita pizza.

    Photo courtesy of Spacca Napoli

When it comes to Italian food, almost everyone can find something they’d like to eat. Chicago is no exception.

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Even with the influx of infusions that has diversified the culinary cuisine here – elevating Asian fusion most recently with restaurants such as Parachute, Fat Rice and Saucy Porka – Italian fare continues to be a strong staple.

Balena's potato gnocchi with mushrooms and brown butterBalena's potato gnocchi with mushrooms and brown butter — Photo courtesy of Eric Kleinberg Photography

From classic steakhouses to modern trattorias, the Second City has always been a great place to eat from anywhere in the boot. Traditionally, Taylor Street with its annual Festa Italiana and the city’s northwest side with its mom-and-pop Italian delis have been strongholds.

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To find out the best places to eat Italian food in Chicago, we polled some of the best chefs in the city (along with other locals and notable foodies) during Chicago Gourmet, an annual food festival held in Millennium Park.

More than 200 chefs were at the 2015 Chicago Gourmet in Millennium ParkMore than 200 chefs were at the 2015 Chicago Gourmet in Millennium Park — Photo courtesy of Dawn Reiss

With more than 200 chefs, including James Beard award-winners such as The Purple Pig’s Jimmy Bannos, Jr. and Spiaggia’s Tony Mantuano demonstrating their mad cooking skills, here’s the 411 on where to go.

Bannos jokes that the “cherished Sunday dinner” is pure “madness” at his family’s Greek-Italian home and includes a ritual of eating with both sides of the family, including his cousins and 88-year-old grandmother.

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“I should be paying royalties to her for her pork neck bone gravy,” Bannos says. "It’s a one pot dish where you caramelize the pork neck bone for great flavor, build your sauce, meatballs, sausage, sometimes throwing in something else like pigs feet.”

Despite winning James Beard’s Rising Chef Award in 2014, Bannos still bemoans the fact that The Purple Pig doesn’t offer one of his favorite foods. “We don’t do pasta, but we will someday,” he says. “A simple Italian restaurant. Stay tuned. That’s the dream, that’s the plan.”

Jimmy Bannos, Jr. prepares gnudi, his naked pasta at Chicago GourmetJimmy Bannos, Jr. prepares gnudi, his naked pasta at Chicago Gourmet — Photo courtesy of Dawn Reiss

When he’s not eating at his restaurant or with his family, Bannos says his go-to spots are Spiaggia and Freddy’s Pizza in suburban Cicero – a place he’s been going to since he was kid, where a husband-and-wife team make their own gelato, pastas and more.

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For executive chef and owner Tony Priolo, his Italian favorites outside of his signature restaurants – Piccolo Sogno and Piccolo Sogno Due – are Spiaggia, Balena and Nico Osteria. “You can’t go wrong at any of them,” he says.

James Beard award-winning Chef Tony Mantuano (middle) shares a laugh with River Roast Executive Chef John Hogan (left) and radio personality, Lin Brehmer, at Chicago GourmetJames Beard award-winning Chef Tony Mantuano (middle) shares a laugh with River Roast Executive Chef John Hogan (left) and radio personality, Lin Brehmer, at Chicago Gourmet — Photo courtesy of Dawn Reiss

For Mantuano, it’s Osteria Langhe. “We ate there Thursday night and it was awesome,” Mantuano says. “The pastas are just like what you’d taste in Italy."

His two big raves include the tajarin – a dish of housemade noodles, Italian summer truffles, fontina with cream – and the plin, a Piedmontese-style hand pinched ravioli with la tur, parmesan, thyme and butter.

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Nearby, inside the white-tented Italian Invasion Tasting Pavilion on Millennium Park's grassy lawn, Quartino Ristorante and Wine Bar executive chef and co-founder John Coletta is slicing and serving paper-thin spianata romana topped with housemade giardiniera and organic arugula on panino.

“Where else would I eat besides my restaurant?” he repeats with a laugh as he serves the melt-in-your-mouth spianata romana which takes six months to house cure.

Quartino Ristorante and Wine Bar executive chef and co-founder John Coletta is slicing and serving paper-thin spianata romanaQuartino Ristorante and Wine Bar executive chef and co-founder John Coletta is slicing and serving paper-thin spianata romana — Photo courtesy of Dawn Reiss

“My house. No, I would eat at Pelago, it is a great restaurant. The food is authentic, it has a lot of flavor. And his trio of pastas is to die for. What I love about it is that Mauro Mafrici’s family is from Calabria and he grew up Trieste, so he has a cross section of Italy in him.”

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No matter the type of Italian cuisine, be it the more refined, meat-and-egg laden dishes of northern Italy or the eggless, semolina-style pastas of the south, there’s plenty to be found in Chicago.

“I think [Chicago’s dining scene] is evolving,” says Osteria La Madia chef and owner Jonathan Fox, who recommends trying out Spacca Napoli, a Neapolitan-style pizzeria on Chicago's north side.

“You’ve got classic, Little Italy, Sicilian-style restaurants – that’s been traditionally the core of Chicago’s Italian dining scene – but it’s evolved into more refined, simple foods, more osterias and tavernas, just a simple country restaurant. Some of the best Italian restaurants are starting to evolve in Chicago.”

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Snap Kitchen: Paleo, Vegan and Healthy Fast Food in Chicago

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Dawn Reiss

About Dawn Reiss

Dawn Reiss is a Chicago-based reporter who loves all things Italian. She has written for TIME, Reuters and Travel + Leisure. 

Read more about Dawn Reiss here.

Connect with Dawn via: Blog | Twitter


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