Mumbai's most famous public space, the beach at Chowpatty was run down and dirty before the municipal authorities transformed it into the gleaming strip of sand you see today. Locals come here to sit on the sand and munch on bhelpuri – Mumbai's favourite salad, made from lentil-flour noodles, green mango, onion and chilli. At sunset, a carnival atmosphere pervades: couples promenade along the sand and children play on hand-operated fairground rides.