Head out of Rome's center on the 105 tram from Termini to Torpignattara, not far from the Pigneto area, for some of the city's best homestyle food. The dishes at Osteria Bonelli are simple and cheap and are ordered off a chalkboard menu. Patrizio, the cook, chooses what food he'll be serving according to what produce is available and what's in season, so expect in-season, fresh dishes alongside the classics like cacio e pepe and amatriciana. And if you're feeling like a culinary adventure, go on Tuesdays or Thursdays when you can try horsemeat specialties. Bookings are recommended. TRAM: 105