If you're looking for the average walking tour, then move along. But if you want to delve deeper into local culture and lore, with commentary powered by a curious mind adept at arcane facts and in-depth research, then you've come to the right place. Arthur Morgan Smith is the gentleman behind Ask Arthur Tours, a retired New York ad man and Tulane grad with a penchant for uncovering the most interesting bits about New Orleans, a place he's called home, on and off, for decades. A longtime volunteer guide for Save Our Cemeteries and Friends of the Cabildo, Smith decided to hang his own shingle out a year ago, and the results are a breath of fresh air in the sometimes overwrought guiding community. The names of his tours are the first hint: Seldom Seen Cemeteries, Bards & Barflies of Bohemia, Vieux Carr� sunrise and Marigny Happy Hour all sound tantalizing, yes? Eschewing the usual ghost tour approach, Smith dives deep into Voodoo/Afro/Catholicism on his St. Louis Cemeteries No. 1 and No. 2 tours, points out haunted sites on his French Quarter tours and adds tidbits about 19th century Afro-Creole Spiritualism in New Orleans, seances, mediums, that sort of thing. Ask him about Napoleon Bonaparte, who supposedly checked in regularly from beyond the grave. Tours are limited to 12 guests, and private tours with transportation come in all kinds of intriguing flavors.