Herbsaint

Chef Donald Link, whose restaurant holdings include Cochon, Cochon Butcher and Peche, conceives robust modern French fare on Saint Charles Avenue not far from Lafayette Square. In a setting that's casually elegant, chef de cuisine Rebecca Wilcomb heads a kitchen that delivers inspired small plates that deserve careful study - try the Louisiana shrimp with roasted chili grits, okra and mushrooms or any of the housemade pastas, a recent spaghetti with guanciale and fried-poached farm egg was especially memorable. Another winner, the roasted Kurobuta pork belly with black olives and arugula. The wine list is thoughtfully compiled and reasonably priced, including the interesting option of seasonal flights.