Holiday Spirit in Los Cabos: Things to Do in December

Maratón Guadalupe-Reyes is a phrase often used in México to describe the month-long binge of holiday parties and festivities, but in Los Cabos this marathon begins a little earlier. Typically held around the first of December, Sabor a Cabo is an enormous food and wine festival that brings together chefs from over 50 of the best local restaurants, as well as representatives from a wide array of domestic wineries and tequila and mezcal distilleries for a bacchanal of eating, drinking and live musical entertainment. Past events have drawn as many as 3,000 people and seen performances from legendary musical acts like Earth, Wind and Fire and Mexican supergroup Maná. This year's bash is scheduled for November 30th at Club Campestre, a Jack Nicklaus designed golf course in San José del Cabo, and will be followed December 8th with a rural food and wine tasting showcasing the region's abundant organic farm produce and fresh seafood.

This beautiful old church is set amid San José del Cabo's historic downtown area, a stone's throw from City Hall, the Casa de la Cultura, and the Distrito del Arte (Art District). Originally founded as a mission in 1730 by Jesuit priest Nicolás Tamaral, the church has undergone several moves and renovations. Tamaral remains an integral part of local lore, however, and one of the church's most arresting features is a mosaic above the entrance depicting his killing by the area's native inhabitants, the Pericúes. The church moved to its current location near the middle of the 19th century, but had to be rebuilt in the early 20th century after being badly damaged by a hurricane. Despite the history - this is one of the most important cultural monuments in Los Cabos - it's a living church, and the best place in the area to attend weekly and holiday services.

Los Cabos has a windsports season that largely mirrors that of whale watching season, although it starts a little earlier; in November, to be exact, when strong El Norte winds start to blow hundreds of miles down the Sea or Cortés, creating world-class windsports conditions on the Los Cabos municipality's gorgeous East Cape. The La Ventana classic in January is the biggest single regional event, but from mid-November through mid-March, small communities like Los Barriles and La Ventana become meccas for destination windsurfers, kiteboarders and kitesurfers. Exotikite in Los Barriles is one of the best locations for rentals or lessons.

Holy Innocents Day, also known as Childermas, on December 28th is a remembrance of King Herod's decree that all male infants in Bethlehem should be killed in order to eliminate the threat to his throne posed by the baby Jesus, whose birth he had learned of from the three wise men. The day is also celebrated as a Mexican version of April Fool's Day, with jokes, pranks, tall tales, and elaborate hoaxes. One should greet all statements made on this day with a healthy amount of skepticism, and under no circumstances should money be lent, as tradition holds that any debts incurred on this day do not have to be honored.

There are a lot of different seasons in Los Cabos. There's a whale watching season, a windsports season, a sea turtle season, and of course a whale shark season. The latter refers to the period from October through April, when Los Cabos visitors can be driven up to the state capital of La Paz to swim side-by-side with these majestic creatures off the tip of the El Mogote peninsula. As large as 40 feet in length and over 20 tons in weight, whale sharks are awe-inspiring when encountered in their natural habitat, and of course completely safe to swim with thanks to their plankton based diet. Cabo Adventures is one of the largest and most reliable tour operators in Los Cabos, offering round-trip transportation as well as the services of a professional photographer to document the unforgettable experience.

Las Posadas last for nine days, from December 16th through the 24th, and commemorate the journey of Mary and Joseph from Nazareth to Bethlehem. Each night there are candlelit processions and reenactments, which culminate in house parties after admittance has been granted at the "inn." The most important day of the season in México is not Christmas, but Christmas Eve (Nochebuena). This is the last night of the posadas, and the birth of Christ is celebrated at midnight. Traditionally, families then attend a midnight mass, followed by dinner and presents. Christmas Day is quite low-key and leisurely, with most feasting on the leftovers from the previous night's dinner. For visitors, most local resorts offer special Christmas dinners, as do some area restaurants.

México has its fair share of traditional spirits, from tequila and mezcal to popular cervezas like Corona and Pacífico. Not surprisingly, the country also boasts a number of excellent seasonal sippers. Ponche Navideño (literally, Christmas punch) is perhaps the best known, and is distinguished from typical alcohol-laced fruit punches by the presence of tejocotes, an indigenous fruit that comes from the hawthorn tree. Noche Buena, a dark, spicy bock style lager from Cervecería Cuauhtémoc-Moctezuma in Monterrey, is the most popular seasonal beer. It's available each year from October through December, and is immediately identifiable by the red and green poinsettia flowers on its label (Both poinsettias and Christmas Eve are called Nochebuena in Spanish). Rompope is yet another Christmas time favorite. First made in México by nuns at Puebla's Convento de Santa Clara in the 17th century, this eggnog style drink is perfect for holiday parties and events. For a special treat, chill it and float a little Kahlua on top.

The relationship of New Year's Eve to New Year's Day is somewhat like that of Christmas Eve to Christmas, meaning the first day is given over to family dinners and celebrations, while the second day is for rest, relaxation and the enjoyment of leftovers. After the dinner on New Year's Eve, many people go out to enjoy the local parties and theme nights, which run the gamut from barefoot beachfront formals to masked carnivals. Fireworks are a staple of virtually every Mexican celebration, but the New Year in Cabo San Lucas is always greeted with a particularly dazzling display over Médano Beach. Once the clock strikes midnight, it is also traditional to eat twelve grapes, with the grapes representing good fortune for each of the next twelve months.

The Thursday evening art walk is one of highlights of any visit to San José del Cabo, and runs from 5-9 p.m. during high tourist season (November through June). The participating galleries are all clustered together in the city's historic Distrito del Arte (Art District), which is one of the reasons you should forget the guided tours and enjoy this weekly event at your own pace. Sip wine, sample cheese, wander the area's beautiful cobblestone streets, and interact with some of the top artists and gallery owners in Baja California Sur. Afterwards, explore the art district's many fine bars and restaurants, which include neighbors Baja Brewing Company and La Lupita Taco & Mezcal.

Whale Watching season in Los Cabos traditionally stretches from mid-December through mid-March, and sees an estimated 5,000 to 10,000 whales migrate south to breeding grounds at Magdalena Bay and in the Sea of Cortés. Grays and humpbacks are the most commonly sighted, but lucky visitors can occasionally see blue, sperm, fin and pilot whales, as well as the occasional orca. The annual migration is big business locally, and virtually every local tour boat offers seasonal whale watching excursions. High-speed inflatables provide the best chance for up-close-and-personal looks at these leviathans, but you don't necessarily have to sign up for a tour to enjoy sightings. Whales are often spied from area beaches, as well as coastal hotels, restaurants and golf courses.