Reserve well in advance to get a table in the central atrium, which has plush velvet chairs and polished tables beneath a vaulted ceiling that lets in scores of natural light two stories up. The side room, or parlour, is no less dramatic, with rosy tones, candlelit tables seating up to eight, and rows upon rows of framed line drawings. The top-notch kitchen produces an array of seasonally inspired plates, including an impossibly elegant hamachi crudo, perfectly seared duck and house-made tagliatelle made with Meyer lemon and tender lump crab. And stay thirsty, my friends – the stellar cocktails are complemented by an impressive, international wine list that includes a crisp, dry rose on tap.