Wise East Siders head to this neighborhood staple when they want true Old Country cooking. Sure the prices tend to be a little steeper than most, but what you get here is quality and quantity. Start off with complimentary antipasti topped with Parmigiano-Reggiano and the sliced salami is magnificent. Don't let it stop there, though, try the appetizers like the fried calamari and grilled vegetables. For your entrée, go with one of their heaping pasta dishes; however, the veal and lamb dishes are also worth sampling. Pace yourself so that you can enjoy a homemade dessert and a little Italian coffee afterwards. Reservations are required. TRAIN: 6 to 77th St