Margaritas and guacamole may be the gateway for Americans to travel through before arriving at some of the most sensational and imaginative dishes new Mexican chefs are brining to New York. Their lineage ranges from learning from gifted home chefs to staffing elegant mainstays like Rosa Mexicano until a young chef named Chef Roberto Santibanez went off to find his own restaurant at Fonda’s. Meanwhile Richard Sandoval’s Maya presents Test Kitchen choices from one of Mexico’s 31 states twice a year and spunky females like Denisse Lina Chavez elbowed her way out of a tough situation to a near perfect one at El Atoradero. We are showing off holes-in-the-wall tacquerias like Los Portales in Astoria to giltzy, slick Anejo. Mexican dining spots are usually staffed with folks who know you do not know much about their menus, so tend to be helpful even in halting English. Try new things in small bites, at the bar, with friends and move on to prix-fixe menus, brunches and join the fiesta. Buen provecho!