Ulysses

Historic Alfama is probably not the first place you'd expect to find the largest collection of bourbon in Europe. But dig deep and you'll eventually stumble across Ulysses, quite simply one of the most extraordinary bars in town. This shoebox-sized watering hole is a veritable treasure trove of rare spirits and liqueurs, historic brands that you'd normally expect to find at the plushest hotels or the most exclusive bar-lounges. Essentially a cocktail bar, Ulysses is ably presided over by Manuel Barreir¬a–and there's few drinks he can't mix or an ingredient he can't quote. The drinks range is vast. Shelves heave under the weight of around 380 labels, anything from 12-year-old Van Winkle Kentucky straight bourbon to Old Duff Real Dutch Genever single malt. Look carefully and you'll spy a seriously scarce Saint Benedictine 1841. Then there's the 1930's Campari, and a Booth's gin, bottled in the 1940s. Liqueurs include Génépi Dolin, an aromatic aperitif from the French Alps. From Rome is the herbal tonic quinine liqueur Ferro China Baliva. Complementing the stock is 40 different wines and six craft beers. Even the coffee is special, and includes 100% Arabica from São Tomé. Ulysses is for anyone who appreciates drinking in a refined and intimate atmosphere. And even seasoned connoisseurs will be impressed with Manuel's extensive knowledge and artfulness in mixing the perfect drink. Reservations are needed after 11pm but if you knock the door and quote the password "to toll the bells" you'll be invited in. Ulysses is a deliberately understated gem of venue where you can enjoy a memorable drink in unforgettable surroundings.