Hidden away in the heart of Alfama, this pleasant restaurant prides itself on its charcoal-grilled specialities, where salmon, shrimp, selections of sausage and meats and other traditional dishes are prepared and served up on terracotta bowls and plates. The proprietor, Sr Vitor, recommends the monkfish fillets with octopus rice. The wine list, written by hand to resemble a ledger, includes wonderfully refreshing vinho verde from Portugal's Minho region. The friendly vibe reflects the cheery interior, with tables laid with navy tablecloths and walls trimmed with polished azulejos (tiles). Together with the honest regional fare, the occasion is heightened by the sound of softly piped Portuguese folk music drifting through the room.