Everybody knows Portas Largas – the "Large Doors". This is one of Bairro Alto's most celebrated bars, a magnet for a predominantly young, gay-friendly crowd from all over the world. Its origins as a fado house are still apparent, with an azulejo (tile) panel depicting a singer and musician decorating one end of the bar. Battered old furniture and a slightly scruffy ambiance only add to the building's wonderfully ad hoc appeal. This place positively heaves during the summer months and ordering one of the famous caipirinha or mojito cocktails over the counter can be challenge. Once served, it's best to escape the sweaty interior and join the throng outside on Rua da Atalaia. The vibe is overwhelmingly friendly and laid back, more so at night when there's usually an African or Brazilian combo providing a live, hip-swaying soundtrack.