Epur

Chef Vincent Farges directs the kitchen at this minimalist gem, where stripped down cooking is served in deliberately understated surroundings. At first glance the menu appears deceptively simple, the food uncomplicated. But what is plated up is quite exquisite in its design, a canvas of color and texture that teases the palate. But it's the flavors that astound: fresh, immaculate, and lingering! Guests can choose anything from four to eight dishes, so-called "moments" all composed using locally sourced ingredients. The tasting experience is an exercise in measured exuberance. Bite into bluefin tuna garnished with tangy Hirado Buntan and crisp celery, or rockfish fricassee accompanied with a stirfry of chanterelles, broad beans, marrow and clams, and you begin to understand the less is more philosophy that underpins Fargas's approach to cooking. The cuisine adapts to available products, with the menu changing according to the season. The wines are all Portuguese, treats that include a Dona Louise 2005 from Quinta de Lemos and Viosinho 2016 from Adegamae.