Lisbon nightlife in Alfama and Graça is a generally a refined and low key scene, which revolves around several excellent fado houses, intimate wine bars, local cafes and a select number of live music clubs. One of the most unusual bars in Lisbon is found deep in Alfama, a place called Ulysses. This is where to head if you love cocktails or rare bourbon. Wine lovers who appreciate drinking in authentic surroundings should amble up to Graça do Vinho, a local haunt but popular with out-of-towners, too. Stay in residential Graça for historic Botequim, which stands out for its bohemian ambiance and literary heritage. Nearby Damas, refurbished from a former baker’s premises, is a noted live music venue that doubles up as a restaurant. Hidden away near the castle is Wine Bar do Castelo, an engaging tasca known for its superb selection of Portuguese wines. Exploring Alfama after dark is to discover places like Duetos da Sá, a late night venue that combines fine dining with a combination of jazzy piano-led live performances. The neighbourhood is also noted for its fado houses and among these is A Baîuca, where amateur fado singers regale diners with their earthy renditions. Similarly, Clube de Fado is renowned for showcasing some of the very best singers and musicians in Portugal. For a more humble experience however, book a table at the family-run Sr Fado. And a great way of discovering Alfama is to join the throngs when the city celebrates the annual Festas de Lisboa. The district stays open all night and the revelry carries into the small hours.