Food and Flavor in Alfama and Graça: Dining Out in Lisbon's Neighborhoods

In Lisbon, Alfama and Graça’s best restaurants represent a national and international cookbook of delicious and imaginatively prepared food. In these two neighbourhoods there are places to eat that serve traditional Portuguese gastronomy as well as international gourmet cuisine. In Alfama, Malmequer Bemmequer is known for its wholesome cooking in a cheery ambiance. Similarly, Trigo Latino offers up traditional Portuguese fare in colourful surroundings. Fashionable Faz Figura, meanwhile, caters for a discerning palate, and the views from the terrace are inspiring. A more humble dining experience can be had at Mestre André. Barracão de Alfama is another no-no-nonsense eatery, where residents and visitors alike appreciate local fare. It’s all about location at Santo António de Alfama, romantically set on a terrace under twisting vine. Around the corner is A Baîuca, a hole-in-the-wall eatery that’s small on space but big in atmosphere. If dining in Graca, head for Via Graça, a long-established restaurant with one of the finest views of the city. For a more offbeat flavour seek out Bistrô e Brechó Gato Preto, a delightful tasca with tables that spill out onto the pavement. Alternatively, O Pitéu de Graça enjoys such a good reputation that city chefs choose here to eat on their days off. 

Very often it's the simplest and entirely unassuming of restaurants that serve the most memorable meals, and this humble eatery does just that! Of course, the locals have known this for years. The menu is right up their street, an appetising...  Read More

Mario and Werner love cats. It's why they named their restaurant after a feline (the bistro's logo resembles a domestic cat but with the spots of a leopard). This place is like walking into someone's front room, and the domestic ambiance is...  Read More

This romantic retreat situated on a hillside in a quiet Graca backstreet affords breathtaking panoramic views of Castelo de Sao Jorge, the distant Basilica da Estrela and a silvery smooth River Tagus. An interior mirrored wall reflects the whole...  Read More

This shoe box-sized taberna in Alfama serves up ensopado de borrego (lamb stew and toasted bread) among other rich, heart Portuguese fare. But what really is special about this family-run eatery is the amateur fado performances (fado vadio) that...  Read More

A beautiful courtyard overhung with twisting vines embroidered with spotlight fronts this delightful tasca. The cosy interior with its chunky wooden tables and vaulted ceiling is festooned with portraits of Hollywood's finest. Traditional...  Read More

Authentic Portuguese cuisine drawn from traditional recipes characterises the food served at this cosy eatery. Regions are well represented, but it's the fish and seafood that has put unpretentious Barracão de Alfama on the area's where to eat...  Read More

Stepping into this humble little tasca is akin to dropping by an old friend's house. The interior is a wonderfully ad-hoc collection of seen-better-days chairs and tables painted bright blue set over a chipped tiled floor. Framed pen-and-ink...  Read More

Smart, stylish and fashionable, this fine dining venue is another Lisbon restaurant that woos guests with fabulous views – some of the tables are set alongside large picture windows that frame the Tagus Estuary. A light and airy esplanade...  Read More

Santa Apolonia

A bright and colourful interior enhances the bistro-style flavour at this chic eatery. Tables and chairs are set over a chessboard floor and the retro furniture lends the place a delightfully ad-hoc ambiance. The carefully prepared menu fuses...  Read More

Hidden away in the heart of Alfama, this pleasant restaurant prides itself on its charcoal-grilled specialities, where salmon, shrimp, selections of sausage and meats and other traditional dishes are prepared and served up on terracotta bowls...  Read More


Meet Paul Bernhardt

Paul Bernhardt cut his teeth as a press photographer in England before leaving the UK to settle in Portugal, where he has lived for over a decade, and where he started to focus on more...  More About Paul