The Lisbon neighbourhoods of Baixa (downtown) and Chiado are two of the city’s most alluring and eclectic for restaurants, where Michelin-recommended gourmet hot spots rub shoulders with humble, down-to-earth eateries. In the Baixa, Taberna da Baixa, set away from the main tourist streets, offers an authentic dining experience in chic-rustic surroundings. Further towards the river and situated on the city’s main square is Populi Caffe & Restaurante, the menu of which fuses Portuguese and Mediterranean cuisine. Overlooking another one of Lisbon’s picturesque squares is Carmo, know for its imaginative take on traditional Portuguese gastronomy. For fresh fish and seafood try Sea Me, where diners can browse the day’s catch rather like visiting a market. Back in the downtown district is well-established local eatery A Licorista-O Bacalhoeiro, in fact two restaurants under the same roof. For a total change of palate, arrive early for the exotic Asian fare served at Boa-Bao, one of the city’s newest restaurants. If you still prefer traditional Portuguese food head for Bairro do Avillez, a delightful roofed patio designed as a deli-eatery serving regional goodies. For a sophisticated night out with a fabulous view, secure a candlelit table on the terrace at Tágide. Equally chic and historic is Largo. Both stablishments are in Chiado. And for a touch of nostalgia, go to Café Martinho da Arcada, once the watering hole of celebrated 20th-century poet Fernando Pessoa.