Santi Santamaría – presiding genius at the three-star Racó de Can Fabes in Sant Celoni (near Barcelona) – has named his sleek Madrid operation after his hometown. It is run by his trusted deputy, Óscar Velasco, who worked under Santamaría for years. Sourcing the best local materials, Velasco might serve up Mediterranean lobster grilled with a lemon-flavored gratin and fresh baby peas, alongside some of Santamaría's famous signature dishes, such as ravioli of sliced raw shrimp with a filling of ceps (wild mushroom). The superlative wine list is strong on the new generation of Catalan wines from areas such as Costers del Segre and the Empordà. The sommelier is happy to match wines to each course. METRO: Gregorio Marañón.