Payne's

Nothing about Payne's - from the gritty neighborhood location to the cinder-block exterior to the dark interior - endears one â€" but as my mamma used to say, appearances can be deceiving. Once inside the old gas station, you meet Mrs. Payne and her son - who both man the counter, the old stove (where a pot of the best beans around simmers) and the pit - you won't care about the no-frills atmosphere. They serve up what is our favorite pork sandwich in the entire city - the perfect combination of a bit of crisp on the outer layer, a tender inner layer, and a sweet tang that comes from either the sauce or the slaw - we're not sure. Piled high on a bun, this sandwich is big enough to split and about as close to pig perfection as it gets. Do ask for a serving of beans - so good that even those who aren't bean fans - like yours truly - will sing Mama Payne's praises.