Sushi Ichizu

The Japanese have a word for master craftsmen or artisans, "shokunin," and the sushi shokunin master chefs in Tokyo have almost a cult-like following, considered to be at the top of world cuisine and gastronomy. The closest most Bangkok residents have ever come to experiencing such fish perfection has only been through a viewing of the famed documentary, Jiro Dreams of Sushi, detailing the life of Tokyo sushi maestro Jiro Ono. Yet now, perhaps foreshadowing the arrival of the Michelin Guide in Bangkok and putting it forever on the world foodie map, locals and visitors alike have the chance to experience sushi and sashimi like they never have before, with the opening of Sushi Ichizu. Ichizu, which means "the way of" in Japanese, showcases the extraordinary talents of Chef Riku Toda, who trained under Hachiro Mizutani, owner of the 3 Michelin-starred Sushi Mizutani. Mizutani himself was a disciple of Chef Jiro, and when he bowed out of the sushi master class due to old age, Chef Toda continued his sushi apprenticing with Takaaki Sugita, owner of Sushi Sugita, another Michelin-starred omakase sushi restaurant that is booked out a year in advance and is Tokyo's top eating spot. Sushi Ichizu follows in these noble and elegant traditions, striving to show that perhaps the best sushi in the world is not only found in Tokyo or Ginza, but right here in Bangkok. There are two seatings per night at Sushi Ichizu, one at 5:30 and another at 8:30, and there are only ten coveted spaces available in the minimalist and traditional Japanese home, and walk-ins most certainly are not catered to. Chef Toda and his two assistants put on a fascinating display of skill and complete mastery of their craft, with their attentiveness to detail and the quality of the fish almost more akin to a theatrical production. The omakase tasting menu features 16 courses made up of whatever the best connections to the Tsukiji fish professionals from Tokyo have been able to source, but usually include the absolute top cuts of akami, otoro, and other sections of bluefin tuna. Other items like hairy crab from Hokkaido and black abalone stewed for 8 hours and then served with a risotto-like sauce made from the abalone liver are as mouth-meltingly delicious as they are photogenic, with the chefs presenting each item for photographing and discussing with the clientele before serving it up. Despite the complete attentiveness to detail and highly elegant atmosphere, there is plenty of interaction with the chefs, and a meal at Sushi Ichizu most certainly isn't a stuffy affair, instead more like a private workshop with one of the world's top food artisans. Even the uni (sea urchin) and tobiko (fish roe), often a bit too fishy or pungent for all but the most devoted seafood lovers are of such high quality here that you'll be left salivating in amazement. A dining experience at Sushi Ichizu does not come cheap at 8,000 baht for a tasting menu (although you can also opt for a smaller mini-tasting course at 6,000 baht), but then again, you're getting the best of the best served up close and personal by a culinary wizard. For that once in a lifetime experience, foodie splurge, or chance to experience the world's best sushi, Sushi Ichizu takes the Bangkok Japanese dining experience to a new level.