This cozy Italian restaurant draws a strong crowd of regulars and enjoys the acclaim of a handful of noted food critics, all of whom praise the place's homemade fare and personable service. Step inside, and you'll feel as if you've just returned from a year at sea. The waitstaff eagerly greet each patron, carefully go over the day's specials, and explain featured dishes, which vary seasonally. Among them are zucchini fritters, potato gnocchi with fresh porcini, grilled tuna steak, and penne matriciana. Dinner reservations are essential. RAIL: Barnes Bridge