Balthazar is not, strictly speaking, a fish restaurant or an oyster bar, but rather a transported New York institution which happens to lord its seafood-mongering talents over the competition with stylish non-effort. It's the definition of gold-plated Old World nostalgia-chic, a gold-lit monument to the early days of New York and London's first metropolitan romance. Try lobster spaghetti for £27 with a full-bodied rosé like Coche-Bizouard Bourgogne Rouge. If you're feeling especially extravagant, try the "Le Balthazar"-sized pleateaux de fruits de mer: lobster, whelks, mussels, dressed crab, langoustine, shrimp, oysters, and ceviche. It's decadence done right, and you'd be advised to come with an appetite.