It’s no secret that Piedmont begets some of Italy’s, if not the world’s, finest wines. This landlocked region neighboring France is particularly renowned for Barolo and Barbaresco, tannic reds made from nebbiolo grapes in and around Monferrato. Befittingly, Monferrato provides the backdrop for another beloved Piedmontese “B”: Barbera.
Garnet-hued Nebbiolo wine packs rose and cherry flavors that grow more complex and leathery with age, while ruby Barbera displays markedly more acidity and fewer tannins, coupling bright red fruit and herbaceous notes. The result: A rounder style of wine compared to its local vitis counterpart.
In Monferrato, one of the most boisterous expressions of the grape comes from Barbera d’Asti DOCG ("Denominazione di Origine Controllata e Garantita" meaning the product has a guaranteed and controlled denomination of origin). A DOC ("Denominazione di Origine Controllata" or controlled denomination of origin) since 1970, it was promoted to DOCG status in 2008.
The denomination currently counts 300 hilly hectares across 167 municipalities in nine production areas within the provinces of Asti and Alessandria; its Nizza subzone earned its own DOCG in 2014.
Ruby red Barbera d'Asti — Photo courtesy of Consorzio Barbera d'Asti e vini del Monferrato
While harvested around Italy, barbera flourishes in Piedmont – particularly in Asti where it’s believed to have been grown as far back as the 13th century. “The barbera grape achieves a unique versatility in Asti and the Monferrato region, both in terms of terroir and production styles,” says Andrea Dani, a sommelier who collaborates with the Consorzio Barbera d'Asti e Vini del Monferrato. “It could give a deep, powerful and plush wine, but also express a dynamic, subtle and sincere, straight, no-frills, extremely easy drinkability.”
The terroir Dani is referencing is comprised of steep slopes coated with two types of soil: the marine sedimentary sand of Asti and the marly, calcareous white earth of Alessandria, Canelli and Casale. The territory, combined with the hot summers and cold winters, creates conditions in which barbera thrives.
The hills and vines of the Barbera d'Asti DOCG — Photo courtesy of Consorzio Barbera d'Asti e vini del Monferrato
“They used to say that Barbera was the go-to drink when your Nebbiolo was aging,” says Sam Bogue, the beverage director for Flour+Water Hospitality Group in San Francisco. “But I would argue that Barbera has an amazing capacity for aging.”
Traditionally, Barbera undergoes stainless steel vinification, but in recent decades, winemakers began experimenting with casks and barrels, which led to the recognition of a Superiore-style wine. Standard Barbera d’Asti goes on the market the spring after the harvest, while the Superiore requires 14 months of cellar aging with at least six months in wood, which adds layers and depth to the wine. It’s then bottle-aged before hitting the market, and many can spend up to another decade in the bottle.
Barbera is a by-the-glass staple in Bogue’s establishments, and he posits that it offers an excellent gateway into the Italian wine world for the uninitiated. He suggests it to guests who prefer either cabernet (powerful and robust) or pinot noir (delicate and light-bodied) – a happy medium for two irrefutably different wines.
Freshly-picked barbera grapes — Photo courtesy of Consorzio Barbera d'Asti e vini del Monferrato
On the classic pairing front, Bogue shares how Barbera’s simple charm provides an excellent foil to northern Italian classics, such as Piedmontese agnolotti del plin, a meat-stuffed pasta lightly doused in a buttery sauce. “The wine plays off the flavors in the butter sauce, and the acidity cuts through the richness of the fat," he explains.
At home, Bogue would pour Barbera during a barbecue as the "wine’s herbaceous and peppery notes contrast nicely with the rich cuisine."
Alternatively, Paris Pryor, the service director of Francie restaurant in Brooklyn, thinks Barbera is an excellent aperitivo wine. “If I were serving it at home, I’d hand a six-ounce glass to guests as they arrive for a dinner party to sip during the aperitivo alongside cheese and cured meats.”
Anyone looking to become more acquainted with the wine can check out the following producers.
Gozzelino
The family has been harvesting vines since 1886, and today, enologist Lorenzo Gozzelino is the fifth generation to oversee the family’s 30 hectares.
Michele Chiarlo
Founded in 1956, Michele Chiarlo, located in Nizza-Canelli, is overseen by the namesake owner's son Stefano.
Cossetti Clemente e Figli Castelnuovo
This winery in Belbo Asti has been around since 1891. Today, the fourth generation, sisters Clementina and Giulia, run the show.
Agostino Pavia & Figli
Founded in the 1980s, this winery in Agliano Terme is overseen by Giuseppe and Mauro, the sons of founder Agostino.
Marchesi Alfieri
This palatial property in San Martino Alfieri dates back to the late 17th century. In 1982, Casimiro San Martino di San Germano relaunched wine production. After he passed away in 1988, his daughters Emanuela, Antonella and Giovanna took over and released the first Marchesi Alfieri bottles under the label in 1990.
Tenuta Il Falchetto
This winery is managed by Giorgio, Adriano and Fabrizio Forno, the third generation. Margherita Forno, Giorgio’s daughter, is the oenologist.
Vinchio Vaglio
This cooperative founded in 1959 is named for the two villages it straddles.
Prediomagno
Founded by a Milanese couple, Emanuela and Giovanni Novello, Prediomagno in Grana is a newer edition to the scene. Its first official year of Barbera was in 2018.
Hic et Nunc
Barbera vines have been on the property since the 1920s. New ownership began recovering the vines in 2012, with 2016 marking the first Barbera vintage.
