Just one of the bars at The Parker — Photo courtesy of Greater Palm Springs CVB
Palm Springs, California became famous for being a haven for the Hollywood glitterati, with stars from Clark Gable and Marilyn Monroe to the Sinatra-led Rat Pack using the desert city for rambling and rejuvenation. It’s equally renowned for its desert modernism architecture inspiring the Modernism Week that celebrates its form and substance every year.
But Palm Springs is only one of nine desert cities that make up the golf course-studded oases flanked by the San Jacinto Mountains and Joshua Tree National Park. These nine towns all have bragging rights. And stretching across just 30 miles along I-10, it’s easy to visit them, even if you just have one day. Start in Palm Springs and head north to Desert Hot Springs. From there, hit the furthest flung city, Coachella, and then see the rest along Highway 111.
Palm Springs
The views stretch miles from the Tramway — Photo courtesy of Greater Palm Springs CVB
Start with a ride on the revolving Palm Springs Aerial Tramway, a two-and-a-half-mile-long and 5,000-foot-plus ascent up Mount San Jacinto that swaps the arid desert landscape for a pine-scented mountain setting that’s at least 30 degrees cooler than at the base. Stay for hiking or snowshoeing, and soak in the views that stretch across all nine cities on a clear day.
The Parker Hotel is an ideal home base for exploring. Squarely at the intersection of indulgence and funk, the Parker has fab bars, the Norma for breakfast and lunch, and Mister Parker’s dining room for dinner.
Midcentury desert modern architecture is everywhere — Photo courtesy of Greater Palm Springs CVB
Where to eat
The Steakhouse at the Agua Caliente Casino is an old school beef palace where the wedge, blackened rib eye and loaded baked potato are the triple crown. For a sly take on the diner, eat at King’s Highway at Ace Hotel & Swim Club, a boho setting with an eclectic Cal-Mexican menu.
Catch the weekly Jazzville show produced by Barry Martin at the Cascade Lounge — Photo courtesy of Barry Martin
Things to do
Catch the weekly Jazzville show at the Cascade Lounge, a throwback to ritzy supper clubs starring the likes of the Sandra Booker Quintet. Take a self-guided Modernism tour, driving or walking. Or go for "starchitecture" and tour celebrity homes in the privacy of your own car – so worth $49.
Desert Hot Springs
Azure Palm Hot Springs Resort has the biggest pool in town — Photo courtesy of Greater Palm Springs CVB
This town just north of Palm Springs is all about the water – drinking it and soaking in its healing properties. Resorts range from clothing optional lodging to celebrity havens like Two Bunch Palms. Azure Palm Hot Springs Resort and Day Spa is a new day or overnight retreat where you can swim in the 100-foot mineral pool, soak in the steamy tubs and enjoy a massage.
Where to eat
Desert Hot Springs isn’t known as a dining destination, which makes the Capri at Miracle Springs Resort a real gem. Try the spaghetti and meatballs, shrimp scampi and/or lasagna.
The quirky Cabot's Pueblo Museum is worth a stop — Photo courtesy of Greater Palm Springs CVB
Things to do
Check out the quirky Cabot’s Pueblo Museum, a collection of Native American pottery, photographs and Alaskan artifacts spread over 35 rooms in a series of Hopi-inspired pueblo houses.
Coachella
Just one of the Coachella murals — Photo courtesy of Greater Palm Springs CVB
This little agricultural town, which actually has an intersection of Grapefruit Boulevard and Cesar Chavez Street, is date farming country, an industry powered by generations of migrant workers. Take a self-guided walking tour to see murals paying homage to farm workers, Cesar Chavez and Mexican folklore.
Where to eat
The locals flock to Jalisco, steps from the serene Veterans Memorial Park in the postage stamp-sized downtown, for fresh birria tacos, carne asada burritos and the like.
The BMW Performance Center is a blast — Photo courtesy of Greater Palm Springs CVB
Things to do
Although Thermal is just over the Coachella border, it’s close enough to the super fun BMW Performance Center, where you can drive souped-up bimmers, built to hug those dangerous curves and stop on a dime. Then let the experienced instructor show you how it’s done – hold on for dear life.
Indio
The Coachella Music and Arts Festival is back in 2022 — Photo courtesy of Greater Palm Springs CVB
Indio is at the crossroads of festival action, with the two biggies, Coachella Valley Music & Arts and Stagecoach Country Music, happening again in April 2022 at the Empire Polo Grounds.
Where to eat
Heirloom Craft Kitchen has a wealth of veg on its menu of scratch-made soups, salads, sandwiches and signature dishes featuring local and organic produce.
A date shake at Shields is a must-try — Photo courtesy of Greater Palm Springs CVB
Things to do
Have you ever wondered about the sex life of a date? Head to Shields Date Garden, where a vintage film edifies and the world-famous date shake is the must-eat treat. Buy dates to bring home for friends – you won’t get them fresher.
La Quinta
The compact Old Town is a cobblestoned haven of adobe shops, galleries and bougainvillea. Catch the Old Town Farmers Market or rent a bike from Old Town Peddler and explore. Hiking trails are easily accessible in the La Quinta Cove neighborhood, so take a wander.
RD RNNR is a culinary hot spot in Old Town La Quinta — Photo courtesy of Francisco Flores
Where to eat
RD RNNR is Chris and Anita Chmielak’s baby, a craft American eatery with a warm welcoming vibe and a super menu of elevated pub fare from chef Jose Hurtado. The lamb chili is a must-try, as is cheesy date salad.
Things to do
PGA West is one of the valley’s premier golf experiences, a cluster of nine courses where the American Express Golf Tournament is played every January. Have a drink at Ernie’s Bar and Grill and take in the view.
Indian Wells
Indian Wells Tennis Gardens is home to the annual BNP Paribas tourney — Photo courtesy of Greater Palm Springs CVB
This well-heeled town is all about tennis and golf, home to the Indian Wells Golf Resort, with its Shots in the Night nighttime glow golf, and the Indian Wells Tennis Gardens that hosts the annual BNP Paribas tourney.
Where to eat
La Quinta Cliffhouse is literally built into the desert rock, a swell place for early dinner (or late lunch) with $25 specials, happy hour and a fine menu of sophisticated American fare.
Things to do
Don’t just tour the Tennis Gardens, work on your serve on one of the 29 courts – non-members pay $25 for adults, $12.50 for juniors. Or up your game with a lesson with former World No. 1 Doubles player, Danie Visser.
Palm Desert
With its El Paseo shopping street (a mini version of Rodeo Drive), tons of restaurants and galleries and McCallum Theatre performance venue, Palm Desert is a hub of arts, food and culture.
Where to eat
Guillermo’s is a family-owned Mexican spot that dishes large portions, friendly service and potent margaritas.
The Living Desert is so much more than a zoo — Photo courtesy of Greater Palm Springs CVB
Things to do
The Living Desert is a wild landscaped zoo, rich with giraffes and cheetahs, kangaroos and camels and a new rhino exhibit opening in fall 2021.
Rancho Mirage
This town is full of green space, from the ubiquitous golf courses to plenty of public parks. Check out the gorgeous public library where a presidential display donated by Gerald Ford includes some of his favorite books.
Where to eat
Sometimes you have to eat dessert first. Do it at Brandini Toffee Factory, the family-owned artisanal chocolate toffee shop founded by Brandon Weimer. What started as fundraising to pay for a class trip to Europe burgeoned into a delicious cottage industry.
Sunnylands shows off personal mementos from royalty and presidents — Photo courtesy of Greater Palm Springs CVB
Things to do
Sunnylands was built by Walter and Leonore Annenberg as a Camp David of the West. Take a tour of the midcentury modern house and the 200-acre native plant-filled property from October to June to see personal mementos, such as a wall of Christmas cards sent by the Queen Mum and the room with twin beds favored by Ron and Nancy.
Cathedral City
Cathedral City is known for its balloon festival — Photo courtesy of Greater Palm Springs CVB
This residential town has an artsy town square, a popular casino and super hiking options that deliver wildflowers and great views. Check out the Fountain of Life in the downtown, the same spot that hosts the annual Hot Air Balloon Festival in November.
Where to eat
Trilusa is a modern Italian bistro with vegan options and a wicked good wild mushroom ravioli.
Things to do
Hike the Araby Trail, a four-mile wander that starts in a neighborhood – don’t be deterred, keep going. You’ll be rewarded by views shared by what used to be Bob Hope’s house. No wonder he built there.
