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Discover Franconia, one of the most underrated wine regions in the world
Head north to Franconia
There's no shortage of idyllic landscapes, picturesque villages, and steins overflowing with German beer in Bavaria. But when you go to the northern part of the state to the Franconia region, you’ll find all of that and more. There are destinations that are as gorgeous as they are culturally significant, architecture ranging from Medieval tradition to the flamboyance of Baroque and Rococo style, and a wine heritage that dates back more than 1,000 years.
Photo courtesy of iStock/eurotravel
Village vibes in Volkach
Volkach is a quintessential small village in the heart of the Franconian wine region. In the surrounding area, a new generation of winemakers are taking the old knowledge and techniques of winemaking and applying them to modern technology and design, in a method that's best described as traditionally different.
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It takes a village to make great wine
In the middle of the Main River,which cuts through the region, is the village of Sommerach, also known as "Weininsel" or "Wine Island" by locals. There are around 140 wine-growing families that cultivate about 250 hectares of vineyards. The small vineyards are not large enough to create their own winery, so as a solution, the community came together to develop the Winzer Sommerach, a co-op that helps families make and distribute award-winning small batches of wine. It gives real meaning to the phrase "it takes a village."
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Sip a refreshing glass of Rotling
The Franconian take on rosé is the Rotling. Rotling is a crisp, fragrant wine that pairs perfectly with the Mediterranean-like spring and summer weather of the region. It ' made by treating red grapes as if they were white.
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Experience Würzburg from above
When you’re standing at Marienberg Fortress, overlooking Würzburg, it's easy to see why this Baroque city is one of the most popular stops along the Romantic Road. The charming city sits along the Main River and is surrounded by Franconian vineyards. Though much of the city was bombed in March of 1945 during World War II, the local community worked tirelessly to return Würzburg to its original splendor, recreating many of its iconic Baroque buildings.
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Stroll through the ornate hallways of the Würzburger Residenz
Most of the Würzburger Residenz was bombed during World War II, but several rooms housing some of the most intricate frescoes and ornate Venetian-style stucco work survived, allowing it to earn its UNESCO World Heritage Site status. The Würzburger Residenz became the home of the prince-bishops, who were both politically and religiously powerful in Würzburg and Franconia, in the mid-1700's. The ceilings are painted with heavenly scenes that depict the power of those who live there. It's hard not to look up in awe.
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Enjoy a glass of Silvaner in the Staatlicher Hoffkeller
Underneath the Würzburger Residenz is the Staatlicher Hofkeller, which dates back to 1128 making it one of the oldest wineries in the world. It later fell to the Bavarian crown and was known as the "Royal Bavarian Court Cellar." But when the monarchy ended in Bavaria in 1918, the winery became the state winery of Bavaria. Throughout the turmoil, they continued to make wine in the Franconian tradition. The Bocksbeutel, a round-shaped wine bottle, pays homage to wine-making monks who used a similarly shaped bottle centuries ago.
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Give a toast to the stunning views on Würzburg's Alte Mainbrücke
On a warm, sunny day, you'll find locals, students and visitors enjoying wine on the Alte Mainbrücke, a historic pedestrian bridge that goes over the Main River. It's a great spot to take in views of Baroque-style houses lining the riverfront and the Marienberg Fortress on the hill overlooking Würzburg.
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Take in the beauty of the Margravial Opera House
When it comes to the arts in Germany, Bayreuth is considered one of the cultural capitals. Its wide, regal streets are lined with Baroque buildings, many of which were brought into existence by Princess Wilhelmine, a Margravine of Bayreuth in the 18th century. Her most beloved building is the Margravial Opera House which became a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2012. It has a perfectly preserved interior carved entirely from wood. The entire structure is hand-painted with images depicting the Holy Roman Empire, including a ceiling mural that is absolutely breathtaking. It's difficult to pay attention to an opera when you’re surrounded by such beauty.
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Escape the city by retreating to the Hermitage
Just outside the city center of Bayreuth is the Hermitage, the summer escape for Princess Wilhelmine, as well as where she retreated to write her memoirs. The Hermitage sits among well-manicured English gardens. Its exterior is decorated with stones and seashells, while visitors to the interior can get lost in lavish decorations and stunning murals.
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Experience the life of Richard Wagner
Aside from Princess Wilhelmine, another contributor to the culture of Bayreuth – and the culture of Germany as a whole – is composer Richard Wagner. Wagner moved to Bayreuth because of the city's prominent standing in the musical world. It was in this city where he established the Festspielhaus, his own opera house created to stage his works. His house is open to visitors who wish to see the rooms in which his music was brought to life.
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Yes, Germany can make craft beer
Franconia is famous for its wine, but Germany is famous for its beer. The German Beer Purity Law dictates that only four ingredients can be used to make beer: water, barley, hops and yeast. So when Maisel & Friends brewery in Bayreuth set out to make craft beer, they didn't see the Germany Purity Law as a hindrance, they saw it as an exciting challenge to create delicious craft beer that abides by German tradition. They've created a line of beers with complex flavors like chocolate porters and citrus ales, proving that even with limited ingredients come limitless flavors.
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Nuremberg: Germany's quintessential medieval city
If you want to explore Medieval Germany, then Nuremberg is the best place to go. It's currently the largest city in Franconia, but during the Holy Roman Empire, it was the preferred residence of the German kings, making Nuremberg the empire's undeclared capital. One of the best ways to take in the entire city is from the Kaiserburg Castle on the hill, on the northern edge of the Altstadt.
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Walk through history in Nuremberg's Hauptmarkt
The Nuremberg Hauptmarkt, or main market, was one of the largest points of trade in Europe during medieval times (from around 1050 to 1571) and served as a checkpoint where spices and other goods were inspected for authenticity. To people purchasing goods during this time period, a Nuremberg seal approval meant the products they were buying were of the best quality. The city's name was trusted throughout the Holy Roman Empire as well as the rest of Europe.
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These brats are protected by EU law
There are over 1,500 kinds of bratwurst in Germany, but the Nuremberg Bratwurst is one of the few protected by EU law. Because of its cultural and historical importance to the cuisine of Germany and its relation to the Spice Route which flowed through the Nuremberg Market, the Nuremberg Bratwurst are Protected Geographical Indications under EU law. That means these brats need to meet a strict list of qualifications to be considered legitimate. For instance, the bratwurst are only 7-9 cm long, 20-25 grams and should have no more than 35% fat content.
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Learn to bake gingerbread the Nuremberg way
Another food that is a Protected Geographical Indication under EU law is the Nuremberg variety of lebkuchen, or gingerbread cookie. As an important stop along the Spice Route, ingredients such as cloves, fennel, cinnamon and, of course, ginger found their way into Nuremberg cuisine. Visitors can take gingerbread cookie workshops at the Wicklein bakery, where they've been baking these special cookies since 1615.
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About Kae Lani Palmisano
Kae Lani Palmisano is the Emmy Award-Winning host of WHYY's Check, Please! Philly, a television show that highlights dining throughout the Philadelphia region. She also writes and hosts WHYY’s Delishtory, a digital series exploring the history of food. As a freelance food and travel writer, she has been published in KitchenAid Stories, Resy, USA TODAY, 10Best, Roads & Kingdoms and more.
Read more about Kae Lani Palmisano here.
Connect with Kae Lani Palmisano via: Blog | Facebook | Instagram | Twitter
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