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How to visit Choquequirao, the other Machu Picchu
Photo courtesy of Dave Stamboulis
Lots of travelers have a hike on the Inca Trail and visiting Machu Picchu at the tops of their must-do lists, but what the glossy brochures don't always show you are the crowds, the lines, the costs and all of the rules now in place at Peru's top tourist destination. Instead, why not head for Choquequirao? It's known as the "other Machu Picchu."
This 15th-century Inca settlement protected the ancient capital of Vilcabamba, and is set in a stunning remote location, high above the Apurímac River and its phenomenal canyon. The complex sprawls across 18 square kilometers on a series of ridges, and still has not been entirely excavated, leaving plenty of visitors to come away with their own Indiana Jones experience.
Even better, you'll have this place almost to yourself if you're adventurous enough to get here, as reaching Choquequirao involves a three- to four-day trek down and up the canyon, as well as doing the same thing to get back out.
Photo courtesy of Dave Stamboulis
Getting vertical at Choquequirao
Built into the side of a mountain, Choquequirao is a remote and jaw-dropping Inca site. Its vertical elaborate stone terraces were designed for food storage, water canals and hilltop Inca ceremonies, and some of the structures were also built to mark solar events like equinoxes and solstices.
While the first non-Incan visitor came here in the 1700s, and while Machu Picchu "discoverer" Hiram Bingham came here in 1909, the site itself was not thoroughly explored nor excavated until the 1970s. Due to its steep and remote location, it still hasn't been completely uncovered today.
Photo courtesy of Dave Stamboulis
Overlooking the Apurímac River canyon, gateway to Choquequirao
Getting there is what makes Choquequirao so special. To reach the ruins, visitors must descend and ascend the Apurímac River canyon, which features narrow gorges and has depths over 9,000 feet, making it even deeper than the Grand Canyon.
From the rim on the canyon's west side, you must drop 5,000 feet down to the river itself, and then climb up the other side another 5,000 feet, and this just brings you to a village where you can camp or spend the night. You still have another day's worth of 1,000 feet of ups and downs to reach the ruins.
Photo courtesy of Dave Stamboulis
View of the Vilcabamba mountain range
The scenery throughout the trek to Choquequirao is spectacular, with views towards the snowcapped Vilcabamba mountains. There's a great mix of alpine and high desert terrain throughout, given the extremes in elevation (between 5,000-10,000 feet), and the majestic vistas help ease the rigors of the grueling descent and ascent.
Most trekkers need two days to reach the ruins, another day to see them and then another two days to return, although hardcore hikers have been known to do the entire trip in three. For the really adventuresome, you can avoid backtracking and continue from the ruins all the way to Machu Picchu, which takes about a week all told.
Photo courtesy of Dave Stamboulis
Descending to the Apurímac
The trail descending into the canyon is well-graded with endless switchbacks, but is still extremely taxing, especially given that there is minimal shade. Even worse is the ascent back up upon return, as this sees constant sunlight from just after late morning. To avoid the heat of the day, most trekking groups stop at the river or a second campsite another hour or so up. Whichever way you do it, getting an early start is imperative.
You can also opt to hire mules to carry your gear, which certainly helps alleviate the climbs, and gives you more time to focus on the incredible views. And while the trek may be grueling, it's certainly easier than it was just under a decade ago, when there was no bridge crossing the Apurímac, and groups had to use a hand pulley system to get goods across the river, with two sets of horses or mules on either side for hauling things up and down.
Photo courtesy of Dave Stamboulis
Elaborate stone wall construction under the mountains
Once reaching the Choquequirao site, the rewards are epic. The temples and residences here feature Inca stone design, and sit on a terrace that looks out to huge peaks and to the seemingly-infinite Apurímac Valley below. The mountaintop where the plaza sits was flattened by the Incas and covered with stones, and priest's residences and ceremonial platforms were erected here as well. The complex also features an elaborate canal system for water flow and cultivation.
Photo courtesy of Dave Stamboulis
Amazing stone llama terraces dotting the hillside
One of the most striking features at Choquequirao is an entire hillside where the terraces have been adorned with llama motifs. Tightly wedged vertical white stone blocks were placed here to create the images, shown as a token of appreciation, as llamas were what the Incas used to transport food, water and stone for building the elaborate and precipitous terraces. Twenty-two llamas run down the hillside here, while at the bottom of the terraces, there is a stone motif of a single herder. This is some of the most unique stone artwork found anywhere in the world.
Photo courtesy of Dave Stamboulis
Temple complex in the sky
The Peruvian government has plans to install an elaborate cable car system into Choquequirao, to render it more accessible. They claim it will help limit the overuse that Machu Picchu is seeing, as well as bring in plenty of extra tourist dollar revenue. However, the system was supposed to be completed some five years ago and still remains a dream at present, which means the incredible adventure of getting here is kept intact.
While Machu Picchu sees several thousand visitors per day, Choquequirao sees under 50, and having such a spectacular place almost to oneself makes the journey here all the more satisfying.
Photo courtesy of Dave Stamboulis
The cozy hamlet of Marampata
Not having a cable car installed also means visitors get to spend the night in the traditional little hamlet of Marampata, perched high up on the ridge just an hour's walk from the site. Here, a few families have opened up their yards for camping, and there are even a couple of indoor options and one slightly more upscale hotel to stay in. The hospitality is outstanding, and you get to see a side of Peru that few visitors get to experience.
A stay in Marampata also ensures that you can walk over to the ruins early in the morning, spend the entire day experiencing them and then come back and relax before starting the trek back down (and up) the next day.
Photo courtesy of Dave Stamboulis
A-frame cabins at the end of a hard trek
Another great reward for finishing this incredible trek is that once you return up to the canyon rim at Capuliyoc, there are a set of A-frame cabins perched on the edge of a cliff. From there, you can look back and admire the entire route you've just covered, which is a far better way to end the journey than just jumping into a car or bus and heading back to Cusco.
You'll want to savor Choquequirao because, at least for now, it's one of the best adventures and experiences you can have in South America.
